Welcome to the New World Chenin Revolution: Hella Chenin!

At the beginning of May, I had the great pleasure to attend the first Hella Chenin festival hosted at Hammerling Wines in Berkley, CA. 26 California producers were there along with 10 from South Africa to show off what this wonderful grape can do outside of the Loire Valley.

Chenin itself has been a key grape historically in California and South Africa, yet it often gets overlooked in favor of Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc. But as global warming and drought continue to be an issue, Chenin Blanc is poised to bring itself back and provide its own beautifully unique voice in the landscape of New World white wine.

Chenin’s historical roots in both countries goes back decades. Chenin was ubiquitous in California during the 1970s and 1980s. If you were drinking a white wine from California, most likely it was being made from Chenin Blanc. The catch there was that it was most likely cheap, bulk, and a touch sweet. This is where we’d see labels advertising “California Champagne” or what they were passing off as “Chablis” (which most certainly wasn’t Chardonnay from Chablis in Burgundy). This all happened because Chenin can be cropped at extremely high yields and can make for a pleasant, easy-drinking wine that could easily serve as a “house white” if you will. It was there to blend and was primarily used for its acidity rather than it’s wonderful, inherent traits. This has led to Chenin vines being ripped out in California as the total acreage planted right now sits around 4100. While Chenin in the past was used for bulk wines, its adaptability has been key in its newfound boutique qualities coming out of California. It holds acidity even in the face of warmer temperatures while allowing the winemaker to craft a wine that is unique to the site and the winemaker’s personal preferences. Add in a host of older vine vineyards that have been neglected, this is a great backdrop for forward-thinking winemakers in California to bring back this grape and take it to a higher level than the United States has previously seen.

While California has seen Chenin go through some dark days, the grape has had a major place in South Africa. In fact, Chenin’s history in South Africa goes back almost to the beginning of winemaking in the country. It isn’t known for sure, but the grape was likely brought to the Cape by French Hugenots in the early-17th century. Known as Steen there, Chenin represents approximately 18.4% of current plantings and is effectively treated as the “national grape” much in the way that New Zealand has treated Sauvignon Blanc (though not to the same extent). It has adapted perfectly to South Africa’s Mediterranean climate and handles the intensely strong winds that come off the Cape. In the Cape, it has brought about its own unique character as that sharp acidity shines through while the warm climate brings about complex citrus flavors. More inland, Chenin’s ability to be used in high density comes through as the land is flatter and producers are able to offer up a solid wine at a very affordable price. But it is the wines on the Cape that show how special the grape can be. This is where some of the oldest vines in South Africa lie. While there is also a lot of dry and organic farming due to the region’s drier climate, this is where producers are able to show off their talent in the vineyard to reduce the yields and bring forth a style that is thrilling and worthy of being a top grape.

It was against this backdrop that I was greatly excited to attend Hella Chenin! Some of the top Chenin producers in California and South Africa would be on display. What Hella Chenin! showed is that this is a grape that is moving forward and quickly. There was such a wonderful range of styles that it would be difficult to sum it up in any broad strokes. What I also loved about it was just the overall energy from the producers. There is something about a community of wine lovers promoting a slightly unfashionable grape that brings together an immense amount of joy. Most of all, the quality was extremely high across the board while producers also poured some older examples to show off that this isn’t just a grape meant for immediate consumption. While the wines were highly enjoyable now, with some age many of these were more than capable of bringing in extra dimensions that appeal to wine lovers across the board. This was an absolute success, and I am greatly looking forward to attending next year’s festival!

Here are my top wines from the Festival:

2016 Littorai Chenin Blanc The Haven- USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

The nose is rounded and balanced with elegant tones of stone fruits, nectarines, red apples, pears, saline, creamed peaches, toast, yellow flowers, and some vanilla notes. There is excellent depth and poise as all of the tones meld well together. The Medium bodied feel is textured and balanced with tart, high acidity that makes your mouth water. This is hitting all of the notes right now. The citrus and secondary flavors are working in perfect harmony to allow this some serious expression. (92 pts.)

2014 Sandlands Chenin Blanc Amador County- USA, California, Napa Valley

The nose is aromatic and melded with well balanced tones of nectarines, peaches, red apples, yellow flowers, flinty notes, bosc pears, some waxy tones, and a touch of saline. This is showing the kind of balance and refinement that comes with age. The Medium bodied feel shows off the balance of the nose with some good depth and expressive qualities on the feel along with tart, high acidity. The acidity is integrated and so balanced while the finish is showing off good persistence. This is drinking so beautifully right now and really shows off how California Chenin can age! (91 pts.)

2023 DuMOL Chenin Blanc- USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

There is a coolness to the nose that is attractive and on the back end of the beat with fresh and balanced tones of nectarines, apples, pears, some toast, quince, yellow flowers, vanilla beans, and a touch of cinnamon spices. This is really pretty and yet it feels like its holding back a touch. The Medium bodied feel is deft and textured with tart, medium+ acidity that leads into an excellent and pleasing finish. This is really lovely and one that can likely get even better with another 3-5+ years of age. (91 pts.)

2022 Las Jaras Wines Chenin Blanc Cuvée Esmé Anne Norgard Vineyard- USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino

There is a lovely, flinty characteristic that is present right away before it peels back into well balanced tones of red apples, pears, meyer lemons, jasmine notes, nectarines, kumquat, and some apple blossoms. There is excellent and balance with an expression side already. The Medium bodied feel shows off the balance and style of the nose with tart, high acidity that persists. This is extremely good right now and feels like it has even more to give with a few more years. This was a real standout on the day. (92 pts.)

2023 Las Jaras Wines Chenin Blanc Cezanne Norgard Vineyard- USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County

The nose is succulent and fragrant with flowing tones of red apples, nectarines, some wooly notes, lemon peels, toast, vanilla beans, and a touch of elderflowers. There is a refined nature that has that touch of wild/wooliness that Chenin blanc can bring. The Medium bodied feel is refined and balanced with crisp, high acidity that has some excellent cut. This is really damned good. It could likely use a few years to fully round into form, but it shows a great intersection between a Savennieres style and California fruit. (91 pts.)

2023 Leo Steen Chenin Blanc The Steen Jurassic Vineyard- USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley

The nose shows off some lovely freshness that takes on a spring-like nature with tones of lemon peels, white peaches, quince, acacia flowers, pears, cinnamon sticks, apples, and some saline notes. There is a real pristine quality to the nose that is inviting and elegant. The Medium bodied feel is fresh and vibrant with tart, high acidity that has some serious cut. The acidity is more vertical, and it does dominate a bit at the moment to where this would likely benefit from at least 3+ years of aging to round out. (91 pts.)

2023 Pax Chenin Blanc Lyman Ranch- USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Amador County

There is a pristine nature to the nose that is attractive and fresh with balanced tones of white fruits, pears, lemon grass, fresh herbs, peaches, apples, white flowers, a touch of nectarines, and some saline. This really leans into a more spring-like nature that is really fun to stick your nose into. The Medium bodied feel is vibrant and fresh with racy, high acidity that has some serious cut. I dig this. I dig this a lot. There is a lot of freshness and precision to this while still showing off some lovely citrus notes. (91 pts.)

2024 Scions of Sinai Granietsteen- South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch

The nose is pristine and flowing with fresh and complex tones of Saline, red apples, vanilla, apple blossoms, a touch of almond paste, nectarines, crushed rocks, flint, a bit of lemon curd tones, and some waxy notes. This shows excellent depth with a bit of precision. The Medium bodied feel shows odd the pristine quality of the nose as well as good depth and balance with racy, high acidity. The acidity really makes your mouth water and shows off some real cut. This is wonderful now, but I can see this adding more layers with even a few more years of aging. (92 pts.)

2023 Spice Route Chenin Blanc Tarragon Old Vine- South Africa, Coastal Region, Swartland

The nose is fresh and aromatic with tones of peaches, white fruits, lemon oils, nectarines, yellow flowers, fresh herbs, red apples, and pears. The nose is lovely and deft as it really leans into freshness. The Medium bodied feel is deft and balanced with crisp, medium+ acidity that makes your mouth water. This is excellent and shows off a good bit of freshness and elegance that is attractive and balanced. (89 pts.)

2023 Aslina Chenin Blanc Skin Contact- South Africa

The nose is balanced and poised with flowing tones of pears, nectarines, red apples, quince, cinnamon notes, vanilla beans, and some apple blossoms. There is good depth with an expressive side right now. The Medium bodied feel shows off the balance of the nose with crisp, medium+ acidity that has a touch of sharpness. This is really lovely and I can see it kicking on another gear with a few years of age. (90 pts.)